The trip was gorgeous, and like Stiffler's mom, only improves with age. The main reason for that is the fading memories (both neurological and the more palpable physical manifestations) left by the mosquitos. This story doesn't really fit anywhere else, and it's amusing enough that I'm sure all y'all will want to hear it. You see, it's like this: Marcin and I have hiked together in the Sierra any number of times, and never have we had to contend with mosquitos before. So, naturally, neither of us thought to check whether our hike overlapped with the two weeks during which the bugs are actually out. When we got our permits, we were told that the bugs were indeed quite enthusiastic. Marcin needed to go back to the nearby supply store for some last minute junk, and I naturally assumed that bug repellent would return with him. Ten miles down the trail, I queried him, and was told that he'd made an executive decision - he's allergic to DEET, and he'd decided that if he was going to suffer, then so were we. I had some extra protection, but Katie humoured him and suffered as much as anyone ever has.
| Day 1 | ||
| big | ![]() | This is a picture I took on the highway on the approach to our trailhead. Typical Yosemite rocks. Why O Why didn't I bring climbing gear? I did have fun standing sticking my head out of the roof of Marcin's brand new BMW 330xi or whatever it was. Fast car, especially with him driving. |
| big | ![]() | Before. This is just before heading out, at about 13:00 on Wednesday. Yes, early starts aren't my bag, I swear, baby! |
| big | ![]() | Marcin and Katie having lunch, after doing about 3 miles and like 10 vertical feet. We're still in Tuolomne Meadows, and will be for quite some time. |
| big | ![]() | Shortly after lunch. |
| big | ![]() | There are many pictures of me and Marcin on hikes. Here's one for old times' sake. |
| big | ![]() | Still in the meadows. We're still barely climbing. |
| big | ![]() | As the sun started to get low we found ourselves at what appeared to be the end of the meadows. It wasn't quite, but pretty close. So far we'd done about 8 miles and maybe a couple of hundred vertical feet. |
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| big | ![]() | We could hear Kuna Creek long before we could see it. This river was stunning not because of sheer volume of water or anything, but because it was more like a continuous set of waterfalls tumbling down a thousand feet or so, separating and rejoining a few times. |
| big | ![]() | Upon reaching the end of Tuolomne Meadows, we started to climb quite suddenly. The sun was going down and we were fairly tired, so no-one really wanted to stop to take pictures. We did our mandatory 1000 feet or whatever it was, and managed to find a windy knoll near a river which you can't quite see in the background here because it's too dark. Here we are, cooking as some distinctly foul-looking clouds roll in overhead. It did not actually rain, of course, but the mosquitos went to sleep until the morning. We slept awfully well; too well to really enjoy the most incredible stars that I've ever seen, anywhere. Understandable - we'd come up from sea level that morning, and were now camping at 10500 feet, after doing 11 miles. Good night! |
| Day 2 | ||
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| big | ![]() | Climbing toward Donahue pass, with Kuna crest in the background. |
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| big | ![]() | Near the top of Donahue pass. The very tip of Banner peak is showing on the right, while Mammoth lakes region opens up below. |
| big | ![]() | A view of Mts. Lyell (left) and McLure (right). |
| big | ![]() | Now, where did I leave that camera? Marcin says he doesn't have it, so it must be in the lake... |
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| big | ![]() | The top of Donahue pass. Banner and Ritter peaks are on the right, Mammoth Mountain ski resort is on the left. |
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| big | ![]() | The sharp summits of Banner, Ritter and Davis (l-r) are visible as we drop down to Waugh lake from Donahue pass. |
| big | ![]() | Yes, that's me. They laughed at my dopey headnet back in the car, but by this time the bugs were tormenting everyone except me, and Marcin threatened to stab holes in it because he wanted one so badly. How that would help is left as an exercise to the reader. Suffice it to say that my lack of suffering did not improve Marcin's opinion of me. |
| big | ![]() | Marcin taking a swim in Waugh Lake. The thing in the background is the Banner-Ritter Saddle (say it out loud. Repeat after me - When the people find a poodle in a puddle on the trail on the Banner-Ritter Saddle, they call THIS a Banner-Ritter-Saddle-Trail-Puddle-Poodle)... |
| big | ![]() | Waugh Lake, after we decided to press on another 30 miles and 47000 vertical feet that night to escape from the mosquitos. Marcin would still be swimming except that it was cold. |
| big | ![]() | Over the pass, after climbing up from Gem Lake toward Alger lakes. A view of Silver Lake and the east side of the Sierra. This was sunset; here we are about a quarter mile from our campsite, and pretty much about to collapse where we stand (bad idea - the trail runs along the middle of a rather impressive cliff). |
| Day 3 | ||
| big | ![]() | Another early start (or it was supposed to be, but I don't think we started moving until about 9). We're all mostly recovered. The round lump in the middle is Koip peak. We'll be hiking toward that saddle to its right, called Koip Pass. Hey! Aren't those Marcin's hiking poles? This is yet another failed attempt to slow him down. The transfer actually took place sometime yesterday, but it was not captured on film until now. |
| big | ![]() | Alger Lakes, with Kuna and Koip (l-r) peaks in the background. |
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| big | ![]() | Alger Lakes as viewed from the ascent toward Koip Pass. June Mountain ski area is in the background on the left. |
| big | ![]() | The top of Koip Pass. Mono Lake lies like a piece of the sky below us. The mountains of Nevada lie on the other side of the lake. |
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| big | ![]() | A few switchbacks into the descent, and I had to try to take a panorama. If you know of some good automated software (that works under Linux, of course) for joining panoramic shots, let me know! I did this by hand with the Gimp, and as you can see, to do it right would require some subtle distortions of the whole images. |
| big | ![]() | Looking down from Koip Pass toward Parker pass, our exit route. Mt. Dana is visible to the right of the pass. |
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| big | ![]() | Looking back. If you look really carefully you can even see the trail of switchbacks that we'd just descended, just to the right of the middle of the picture. There are like 23 of them, and they descend something like 1300 feet in under a mile. |
| Day 4 | ||
| big | ![]() | Almost the same view, at dawn, as we were running around trying to get moving before the mosquitos woke up. |
| big | ![]() | After. |
| big | ![]() | After. |
| big | ![]() | After. |